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If any       of these products eat the paint, metal and or rubber of your vehicle, I       am <b>not</b> responsible.       <p> Also note that we have a Culligan Water Softener (incredible by the way) so   all of the water I use has a hardness of between 0 and 1, as we are coming right   out of the softener itself. I am sure this will make the products perform better   than hard water will.</I><p> I am not a car buff (pun intended) but I would like to take care of my new   SHO. I thought I was taking care of my Probe, but the Nu Finish I was using   is polish and I am sure that helped the crappy 1989 Ford clearcoat come off   even sooner. Thus, don't take my word for religion.<p> I got a lot of the products listed here from other sites, such as the <A HREF="http://www.xnet.com/%7Emikesc/SHO3paint.html">SHOtimes   vehicle exterior care</A> page. Some I am trying for myself. I will add products   as I use them.<p> <B>Index:</B> <UL TYPE=DISC>  <LI><A HREF="#clay">Detailing Clay</A> - Updated 8/19/97   <LI><A HREF="#washing">Washing</A> - Updated 8/19/97     <OL TYPE="1" START="1">      <LI>Update on <A HREF="#mitts">mitts</A>     </OL>    <p>   <LI><A HREF="#windshields">Windshields</A> </UL><p> <H2><A NAME="clay">Detailing Clay</A></H2><p> On several recommendations I picked up some Maguiar's Detailing Clay for around   $13.00. It consists of a block of clay and a lubricant. Its job is to remove   embedded grime, tar, spots, etc.<p> At first I thought I would use the clay up, but now its obvious I will run   out of spray before that. :)<p> As I was washing, I could hear the towel dragging across the finish, so I   found a section on the hood that had a lot of black and orange grim still, even   after the wash. So, I spritzed the lube on and wiped it away, then soaked the   area, made half the clay into a pancake and began to rub lightly.<p> I applied a little more pressure and all of a sudden the clay felt like it   was on ice. As I worked it back and forth, the grime began to disappear, slowly,   then wallah, it was gone. I worked the area I had tested (about 3x5), wiped   up the lube and passed my fingers over the area - smooth as silk. The stuff   works!<p> However, due to its nature of the lube and clay, I don't think its designed   for the entire car type of job. Maguiars #1 is for that. The clay will work   great for getting rid of any spot grime after a wash between complete cleaning/polishing/waxing.   I have no idea if it just takes the grime out of the wax or if it will strip   the wax as well.<p> For a first test, it worked well. But then again, for all I know it could   have removed the clearcoat :)<p> I stored the two chunks of clay in a zip lock baggie to try and keep them   moist.<p> <H2><A NAME="washing">Washing</A></H2><p> Washing the car seems to be the biggest debate on the net - To use a car wash   or to use Ivory liquid. So far, from what I have gathered, people don't like   the car wash because it does not suds well, and others don't like Ivory because   of its abrasives.<p> Being a new car and raining, I decided to wash the car before being detailed   at the dealers tomorrow. I bought some Maguiars Car Wash and I'll tell you why.   First off, we have a (repeat after me) water softener, so soap seems to be much   more efficient than with hard water from a hose. Secondly, its new, so I thought   I'd play it safe.<p> The bottle says to use no more than 4 capfuls. Since people suggested using   one cleaning cloth for above the road grime level and one for below, I used   2 caps to 1 gallon of water. The soap suds up incredibly well.<p> For the top part, the trunk, roof, doors (above the lines) and the hood, I   used a Detailer's Choice Chenille Cotton mitt. This worked very well. I rinsed   the car off after cleaning it. I then emptied the bucket, rinsed it, then used   2 more caps and a gallon of water for the bottom half.<p> For the bottom part, the tail end and the face and grill, I used a Detailer's   Choice 100% cotton wash pad (with sponge in middle). This worked <B>very</B>   well because the sponge allowed the cotton to get into the grills on the front   end and into the nooks along the lower side panelling. I was really happy with   this. Rinse.<p> It started drizzling so I pulled the car into the garage. First I tried the   Detailer's Choice Genuine chamois pad (as a sponge in middle) and was not happy   with it at all. It might be good for nooks however.<p> I went through 12 Detailer's Choice 100% cotton terry towels to dry the car.   These towels did not feel all that smooth, but I did not have a chance to wash   them before using them. They felt very thin and I could hear them dragging across   the car.<p> The dragging it turns out was from dirt grime as well as the terry. See my   section on the detailing <A HREF="#clay">clay</A> I tried out. After I used   this, it was pretty quiet.<p> I'm not sure how it turned out - I don't think I got off all the water (It   was pitch black at 9:30pm) so I might need to find some new towels. Also, the   car was grimy and not waxed to a shine so that may have had a lot to do with   it.<p> <B><A NAME="mitts">Mitts</A> update</B><p> I made the mistake of watching the chenille cotton mitt and pad. What a mess!   Chenille all oiver the machine. It was good though, because with the clean,   I could see all of the dirt and crap embedded in the cotton fibers even after   washing. Definately not good for future washes.<p> <H2><A NAME="windshields">Windshields</A></H2><p> My car has not been detailed by the dealer yet but it has a lot of water spots   that they will be taking out. While at Pep Boys picking up some RainX as suggested,   I noticed that RainX has a cleaning compound as well. I picked up a bottle and   decided to give it a test while I have spots on the windshield.<p> First I used Windex to clean the film and grime off with a paper towel, then   buffed dry with a wad of newspaper. The spots were still there in all their   glory.<p> Next, I used a new terry cloth, damp and applied the Rain-X cleaning compound   to the upper drivers quadrant of the windshield. I worked it in a circular,   overlapping pattern. I applied another dab and repeated the pattern.<p> The bottle says to rinse with water until the product is gone, but a) Being   in the garage at b) 1:00am and c) Not sure how the water runs off the windshield   yet I just cleaned the cloth well, soaked it and used that to wipe away the   product. This took 3 goes. Then I buffed the remaining water with wads of newspaper   until dry. There was still some product at the edges of my pattern, so I think   the rinse with water is a good idea, provided you are going to wash the car   after this to remove any product that might get on the hood, doors, etc.<p> I got in the car and Windexed the inside (new car grime), shut off the garage   light and turned on the headlights. (<I>BTW: If you do this at 1:00am it is   suggested that you write a web page about it immediately after so you can remmeber   that you shut off the auto lamps and thus the headlamps are still on in the   garage</I>) From what I saw, the top half was crystal clear and the bottom half   was spotted and streaked. I have not yet used the Rain-X treatment, I will wait   until after the dealer details the car.<p> <b>Followup:</B> Wow! Its the next day and the difference in the section treated   vs. the other sections is amazing! I did not even apply the Rain-X yet, just   wiped off the cleaning compound!<!-- InstanceEndEditable --><hr noshade size=1>      <P class="smallside"> &copy; Copyright 1997-2002 Geeks R Us. 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